It’s fun when things happen that you didn’t expect, like when someone sends you flowers or you find out that all of your roommates have left for the weekend. But one place where they should never happen is the hair salon chair. When a stylist cut my curtain fringe into a chunky, straight-across style that I didn’t ask for, my first instinct was to cry. Then I pulled myself together and fixed my new mullet-adjacent ‘do. And who better to ask for advice than Mark Townsend, Dakota Johnson’s stylist for more than 13 years? His clients include the dream cast I always show my hairstylist as inspiration: the Olsen twins, Aubrey Plaza, Rachel McAdams, and Jennifer Lawrence.
He gave us some good news that we really needed: “When you see Johnson on a red carpet—anytime you see her—she’s blown out her own fringe.” That means I might not need a whole army of professional groomers to fix my hair. She only needs a few things to get those wispy fringe that look like they came from the past, which is even better. He breaks down the exact steps and volumising products I need to use to get my fringe and confidence back in fighting shape.
No: Styling Dry Bangs
Yes: Starting with hair that is sopping wet
Dakota Johnson standing inside with a black wall behind her
Getty Images
Johnson and I might only have one thing in common when it comes to beauty: our strong cowlicks on the right side. Townsend says, “The best thing to do if you have a really strong cowlick is to blow-dry it from wet. You can’t let it air-dry because that’s when your cowlick separates and lifts.”
He says Johnson starts with very wet fringe and a flat brush. Then he uses the blow-dryer nozzle to aim it straight down at her face. Townsend says that moving the root of her fringe back and forth with the flat brush makes the cowlick softer and blends it in with the rest of her hair. It also gives it a little lift, which is what you want. This method also makes them move naturally.
Spornette Round Brush Spornette Ion Fusion 2 inch Round Brush Credit: Amazon $22 at Amazon
Johnson uses a small Spornette round brush to get her signature ‘flick’ on the sides of her hair when the fringe are 80 to 95 percent dry. Townsend says that at this point, the blow-dryer nozzle is at the end of her nose and pointing up. He says, “The blow-dryer is coming from below to get the ends, and she uses the round brush to flick them out and to the side.” “It’s such a flirty little thing; I love it,” Townsend says.
No Wet Products Please
Yes, dry powders and sprays that add texture
Dakota Johnson looking a little to the side
Images from Getty
Townsend says, “Wet products should never go in fringe because that hair is so short.” He also says that “people tend to over-product them.” Townsend says you should never use wet products like gels or mousses unless you’re air-drying your fringe. “Use as much of your natural texture first,” he says.
Kevin Murphy Doo. Finishing Hair Spray for Over Dry Powder
Dry Powder Finishing Hair Spray by KEVIN.MURPHY DOO.OVER
Amazon says it’s $38.
Townsend found Kevin.Murphy Doo. Johnson herself gave me Over Dry Powder Finishing Hair Spray, and now I can’t do my fringe without it. Townsend says, “This is a powder-based hairspray. I think of it as a dry texture spray with a little more hold.” He says that regular hairsprays can make hair stick together and stop moving.
Townsend says, “I always cover the bottom half-inch of her fringe, right around the eyebrow, to keep any product from getting there.” “We’re only using the product to hold the roots in place and keep the fringe from getting too piecey.”
Oribe Hair Spray for Fine Hair
Oribe Superfine Hair Spray on Amazon Prime Day
Credit: Amazon $46 at Amazon
Townsend says that if your bangs tend to spring up, you should spray hairspray on a toothbrush with natural bristles or a reusable mascara wand and then brush them down without getting the product on the tips of the bangs, which can make them break into uneven chunks.
No: Things to Put in the Lower Half of Your Bangs
Yes: Only putting products on your roots
Dakota Johnson smiling in front of a crowd
Getty Images
“Only apply products at the roots!” Townsend says. He suggests that before you use any styling product, put your forefinger over the brow to cover the lower half of your fringe. “I’ve seen people use a baseball cap or a visor to cover the bottom half of their fringe,” Townsend says.
Townsend also says that if you have a really strong cowlick or very thick, curly or wavy hair, you should split your fringe into two parts. Next, he says, “Take the part that’s closest to the actual hairline and blow-dry it first and down as hard as you can because that’s your cowlick, and that’s what’s going to spring up.”
Crown Affair Dry Shampoo and Crown Affair The Refillable Dry Shampoo Powder
Thanks to Sephora, this costs $48.
Everyone’s fringe need a little work, even Johnson’s. That’s where Townsend and my favourite dry shampoo come in handy. “I love the Crown Affair Dry Shampoo,” he says. “You can lift up the fringe, put the powder on with the brush that comes with it, right at the hairline, at the root, and give it a little massage. Your fringe look brand-new.”
Briogeo Style & Treat Dry Shampoo Puff
Briogeo Style & Treat Dry Shampoo Puff
$28 at Amazon $22 at Amazon
Townsend loves aerosol dry shampoos, but they can be hard to use on fringe because you have to hold the canister very far away from your hair to keep it from getting too much in your hair. Instead, he chooses the Briogeo Style & Treat Dry Shampoo Puff, which has a unique design. You can use its special puff applicator to get to the roots of your hair. “You can tap it down right on your hairline, where you want it, and it won’t leave any residue,” he says.
Rosemary Serum from Nécessaire
Nécessaire Rosemary Serum | For Denser, Fuller, Healthier Looking Credit: Amazon $48 at Amazon
I can officially stop using a thick headband to pull my hair back, and I’m excited to have my longer curtain bangs back. So, I’m also adding the Nécessaire Rosemary Serum to my fringe styling routine in the hopes that it will help my fringe grow out. I really believe in the shampoo and conditioner from the same line. They both use a plant-based formula that contains rosemary oil, which is known to help hair grow.
It’s nice to know that I don’t have to buy half of Sephora to get the same easy fringe as the coolest girls in Hollywood. But if you want to try more products, check out the Townsend- and InStyle-approved picks below.
